Understanding Pixel Defects in Digital Photography: Dead, Stuck, and Hot Pixels
Digital photographers frequently encounter pixel defects that can mar otherwise flawless images. While there’s ongoing debate among photographers about the precise classification of these defects, they generally fall into three distinct categories.
| Type | Dead pixels | Stuck Pixels | Hot Pixels |
|---|---|---|---|
| Charcteristics | Fixed black/other-colored/darker spot | Fixed colored spot, and don’t change from picture to picture | Colored pixels that look like very small crosses |
| Reason | Doesn’t receive any power | Always receive power | sensor gets hot |
| Position | sensor & LCD | sensor & LCD | only sensor |
| Duration | Permanent | Might disappear over time | Appear and disappear over time |
| Severity | Rare | Common | Normal |
Dead Pixels
A dead pixel is a permanently damaged pixel on the camera’s sensor that does not receive any power, typically manifesting as a black spot on the camera LCD. However, due to the presence of color filter arrays (known as “ Bayer filters ”) in front of digital camera sensors, these dead pixels often appear as differently colored or slightly darker spots compared to surrounding pixels, rather than pure black points. This malfunction is essentially permanent and irreversible. While dead pixels are relatively rare on digital camera LCDs and sensors thanks to manufacturers’ rigorous Quality Assurance (QA) processes, they may naturally develop on DSLR LCD screens and sensors as the device ages.
How to spot dead pixels
Identifying dead pixels on the camera LCD is straightforward:
- Turn on Live View
- Point your camera at a bright area (like the sky)
- Look for spots that remain fixed regardless of camera movement
For detecting dead pixels on the camera sensor:
- Capture multiple images with varying colors and patterns
- Examine each image at 100% magnification
- Look for pixels that consistently appear in identical positions while changing colors between shots, or appear consistently darker than neighboring pixels - these are likely dead pixels.
Stuck Pixels
Compared to dead pixels, stuck pixels exhibit several distinct characteristics:
- They continuously receive power, resulting in a colored pixel appearing consistently in the same location on either the camera LCD or sensor/images
- The affected pixel remains fixed on a single color that noticeably differs from surrounding pixels showing correct color shades
- These stuck colors typically manifest as red, green, blue, or combinations thereof
- Unlike dead pixels, their color remains constant across different images
- While more common than dead pixels, stuck pixels are not necessarily permanent and may resolve over time
How to spot stuck pixels
There are two main methods to identify stuck pixels:
For LCD Detection:
- Set camera to Program/Auto or Aperture Priority Mode
- Enable Live View
- Pan the camera around while observing the LCD
- Look for pixels that maintain the same color regardless of camera movement
For Sensor Detection:
- Capture multiple images at a base ISO (100 or 200)
- View images at 100% magnification on your computer
- Search for colored pixels (appearing as small crosses when viewed closely) that consistently appear in identical positions
- Note that it’s normal for both digital camera sensors and LCDs to have several stuck pixels

Hot Pixels
Hot pixels differ from stuck pixels in several key aspects:
They only appear when the camera sensor heats up during:
- Long exposure shots
- High ISO settings (above 400-800)
They are considered normal phenomena:
- Present even in brand new cameras
- Manufacturers attempt to map them out during QA
- Will appear and disappear over time
Key characteristics:
- Universal occurrence across DSLR cameras
- Affect only the sensor, not LCD screens
- Inevitable development over time, even in cameras without initial stuck pixels
How to spot hot pixels
Follow these steps to identify hot pixels:
Initial setup:
- Attach lens cap
- Switch to Manual mode
- Disable Auto ISO
- Set ISO to 100 (base ISO)
First test shot:
- Set shutter speed to 5-10 seconds
- Set aperture to f/16 (reduces ambient light penetration)
- Take a picture
Second test shot:
- Increase ISO to 800
- Change shutter speed to 1/1000
- Maintain same aperture
- Take another picture
Analysis:
- Compare both images at high magnification
- Look for colored pixels appearing as small crosses
- Note: The second image (higher ISO) typically reveals more hot pixels

How to Fix Dead, Stuck and Hot Pixels
Limited Self-Fix Options Unfortunately in most cases, you cannot fix dead, stuck or hot pixels yourself. While some online tutorials claim to offer solutions for mapping out stuck/hot pixels with various software (only works with very old DSLR models), attempting these fixes is not recommended and should be done at your own risk.
Handling Different Types of Pixel Issues
2.1 LCD Screen Issues
For LCD screen defects, a practical perspective is helpful. Consider that a typical 3-inch Nikon LCD contains 920,000 pixels - a single dead pixel represents only a 0.0001% failure rate. Unless you have more than 2-3 dead pixels clustered together, there’s little cause for concern. Remember: LCD pixel defects never affect your actual images.
2.2 Sensor Issues
Camera sensor defects require more attention as they directly impact image quality. With sensors containing 12+ million pixels (compared to LCD’s 920,000), the likelihood of defective pixels increases. Dead and stuck pixels are particularly problematic as they appear in every image.
2.3 File Format Considerations
- RAW Format: Software solutions like Lightroom and Photoshop Camera RAW automatically handle pixel mapping during import
- JPEG Format: Requires more post-processing effort, though batch-processing software options exist
- For JPEG shooters experiencing stuck pixels at low ISOs (100-200), professional remapping service is an option
- Hot pixels at high ISOs are normal - manufacturer remapping isn’t recommended as they’ll likely reappear elsewhere
When to Return Your Camera If your new camera shows excessive defects (more than 3 on LCD or 5 on sensor at low ISOs), consider returning it to the seller. Return policies vary - some offer full refunds or exchanges, while others may charge restocking fees.
Long-term Prevention Tips To minimize pixel defects over time:
- Only activate the sensor when necessary
- Limit unnecessary light and electrical exposure
- Avoid leaving the mechanical shutter open unnecessarily
- Use the mechanical shutter properly and only energize the sensor during actual image capture
- Remember that pixel defects naturally increase over a sensor’s lifetime increase over a sensor’s lifetime